A neighbor, Rick, who sold me my red kayak, has been pressuring me to try surf kayaking. My venue of choice is a nearby lagoon. It’s quiet there with interesting and beautiful birds, particularly blue herons. Sometimes the water is rough but usually it’s fairly calm and, with the exception of my feet I don’t get wet.
Ocean kayaking has seemed intriguing; I always look at kayakers paddling up and down the coast in deep water and wish I could try it. But you gotta get past the surf…
So I agreed to go this week. I was worried about the cold and put on a wetsuit and two pairs of booties. The water was probably 62 degrees and the air was maybe 75, a recipe for chill. But by the time we lugged the kayaks down to the water I was roasting and the ocean felt great. Paddling over the surf turned out to be the easy part. You just lean back which lifts the bow and you go right over. Rick had instructed me how to catch a wave, no problem there. Paddle, paddle, paddle, lean forward, when the wave starts to lift the back of the boat, lean back and ride it. Woohoooo! It was great! Until I fell off and the kayak hit me on the back of the head (I didn’t have a helmet!) That was okay. I stood up and tried again, and again. After the third wave and third whack on the head, I had a throbbing headache and decided to head into shore for reevaluation.
On the beach I sat on the kayak and watched Rick for quite awhile. I saw what he was doing and tried to internalize it. I didn’t want to go back in but I had agreed to try. I didn’t want to walk away from this defeated without giving it another chance. When the pain in my head was gone, I hauled the kayak back out and experimented in the small surf. The techniques he taught me worked and I caught almost every wave; it was pretty fun. It was a little like learning a dance, though. I was coaching myself the whole time rather than just riding waves, lean this way, put the paddle out, you’re not gonna tip, oh! you made it, you’re not hurt, go back in again! I suppose that would change with time and more practice.
When the session was over (after my fourth and final whack), we both lay on our kayaks enjoying the warmth of the day, listening to the surf, and visiting. It was strange to be “playing” at the beach with someone I don’t know very well, but it was very fun. I will go again and get out past the surf and go along the coast. With a helmet on. Now that I know how to ride a wave relatively safely I am not afraid.
The thing about our lives is, we have so many opportunities to take risks and try new things. I’m not talking about reckless or foolish ideas but simple little risks like talking to someone we don’t know, raising our hand to speak, learning a new hobby or tasting new foods. Life goes by so fast and we have so little to lose by trying. So here’s your assignment, try something new this week or take the steps necessary to get there. Just do it! Thanks, Rick!




